We get asked a lot about safety and whether any areas in our cities should be avoided.  We generally give one of two standard answers (there’s a short one and a long one), both of which try to make one important point – that there is not the same degree or level of malicious, violent crime in Europe as in other parts of the world.

The main crime to look out for is getting robbed, which happens not at gun or knife point, but by pickpockets who roam around and look for people they can catch unaware (which is relatively easy when you’re staring up at a famous, historic monument).   This is more of a nuisance than a danger – in that personally, you won’t be threatened.  But if you get targeted, and they get you – it can ruin your day, your whole trip, or maybe more.

The two defenses against this crime are:

1.  Don’t carry around anything valuable.  Or at least, don’t have it anywhere accessible.

2.  Know what the thieves look like, and avoid them.  If necessary, even shoo or give them a shove.  Often they are children (sad, but easy to defend yourself against).

The following picture was taken in Rome, near the central train station Termini.  When I first came to Rome, I was used to seeing many ethnic groups in large cities, and I was surprised at how the Romans considered anyone who was not Italian, or a tourist, to be a thief.  Very racist, and hopefully that viewpoint has changed over the years.  But what was more odd was that they could tell, by looking at someone, that they weren’t Italian.  Now, after more than a decade, I too can see it immediately, but for the tourist, this will be a hard distinction to make.  I don’t believe that anyone foreign and not a tourist is a thief, but recognizing who “doesn’t belong”, is part of recognizing who is up to no good.

For example, look at this picture.  What do you see?

Two women standing on the sidewalk, right?

No.  Look again.  See the cardboard?  That’s the thief’s prop of choice.  They use it to distract their partner’s hands that are going in your pocket.

Check out the look on backup girl’s face.

She’s scanning, searching, for a target.  If you know what to look for, you can see it a block away.

And these dudes?  You think they’re just standing around, letting the belly get some fresh air?

Actually, yeah.  No idea what’s up with that.  Probably best to stay away from them too.

This video was initially intended to be a simple demonstration of how to make artistically marbled paper using traditional techniques, for an article by my friend Toni DeBella, who writes a blog about Orvieto.

However, after meeting Lamberto the papermaker, I realized the story was about so much more. With books from the 1600′s that he pulls out and flips through to illustrate his points, Lamberto tells us the story of paper – it’s history and passage through ‘The Silk Road’, and how it changed society by permitting the spread of ideas in a cheap and accessible way.

As Toni says in the video, this is one of the things we love about Italy – how these history lessons spontaneously pop up in simple conversations and include things that are hundreds of years old, that “back home” would be held in a museum by glass.

You can read Toni’s full article on Italian Notebook here.

OUT JAZZ

The OUT JAZZ festival is a free open air range of live concerts and DJ sets held throughout
Lisbon every Friday and Sunday evenings from May to September. Friday venues change every
week, held at scenic points of the city, a hotel or museum grounds and start at 18:00 hours.
The Sunday evening concerts start at 17:00 hours and are held in a different public garden or
park every month: in May the venue is Jardim da Estrela (near Lapa apartments/tram 28
route), whilst Anfiteatro Kiel to Amaral (Monsato park) is the chosen venue for June, Parque
Eduardo VII (city centre near Marquês do Pombal) is the July venue, Jardim da Torre de Belem
(Lisbon riverside) is the August venue and, Tapada das Necessidades (also on the Tram 28
route) will be the venue in September. Download full details here: Lisbon Outjazz Program 2012

*****

ROCK IN RIO

2012 is a year of ROCK IN RIO-LISBOA, the festival that takes place every two years with
lots of major international stars such as Lenny Kravitz, Stevie Wonder, Smashing Pumpkins,
Maroon 5, Metallica and Bruce Springsteen. Held at Parque da Bela Vista (Beautiful View),
one of the largest open areas located within the eastern city limits of Lisbon, the park
comprises an area of 85,000 m² and is transformed into a “City of Rock” during this event.
This year’s Rock in Rio will be held on the 25/26 May and 1/2/3 June. Using public transport is
recommended as traffic and parking spaces in and around the venue will be restricted: metro
(Linha Vermelha/Bela Vista) or Carris buses ( 5, 10, 17, 21, 22, 708, 755, 794). Full details at:
www.rockinriolisboa.sapo.pt

*****

SANTO ANTONIO

Lisbon explodes into an all-night party on the 12-13 June, for the feast of SANTO ANTONIO,
its patron saint – the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) hosts a parade /competition of
folk music and dance between the city’s bairros (districts); the streets of old quarters such
as Santos/Madragoa, Alfama/Castelo and Bairro Alto get decorated with colourful lanterns
and streamers hanging from one building to another; the locals open their houses to sell
wine and sardines or grill them at street stands; there are people dancing to live bands on
many of the cities squares; and men give “mangericos” (pots of lucky basil with a poem) to
their sweethearts! The nights of São João (23-24 June) or São Pedro (28-29 June) are also
celebrated, although the party is somewhat more sedate!

*****

COOL JAZZ FEST

The motto for the COOL JAZZ FESTIVAL is summer nights, a beautiful garden and excellent
music sound! The 2012 festival features leading contemporary singers and instrumentalists
who will be performing open air in Oeiras (easy to reach by train from Cais do Sodré from
Lisbon city centre and then a local bus to the venue). This year’s opening number will be
a performance by Sting on the 29th June at Parque dos Poetas (a larger venue for a larger
audience); and the remaining concerts that include Al Jareau and Buena Vista Social Club,
will be held on the 4, 8, 19, 21 and 22 July in the Palace of the Marquis of Pombal Gardens.
See last year’s video Full details at http://www.cooljazzfest.com

*****

OPTIMUS ALIVE

And let’s not forget the annual OPTIMUS ALIVE festival on July 13, 14 and 15. This year it will
bring bands like Radiohead and the Cure amongst others, and it will be held on the riverside at
Algés, an area quite easy to reach by bus, metro and train. Full details at: http://www.optimusalive.com

*****

"Fado" by José Malhoa - at the Museu da Cidade

FADO

Last but not least, Portugal’s national song FADO has recently been added to UNESCO’s list
of World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is mournful and sad and mostly about “saudade”
(longing), sung in late night establishments throughout Lisbon and accompanied by guitars.
You will find many of these establishments in the Bairro Alto and Alfama quarters of the city,
and the golden rule is – if it looks like a dark and dingy hole-in-the wall it will probably offer the
most genuine experience. Avoid the places where a waiter comes to the door and invites you
in, as these are more tourist orientated. There is also a Fado museum in Lisbon.

Istanbul has been our family’s home for one month. On first blush, Istanbul didn’t strike us as being child friendly. In fact, Istanbullus argue that there aren’t enough child oriented things to do in the city. Our neighborhood of Beyoglu has a vibrant arts scene and variety of restaurants, cafes and boutiques. However, like most ‘hip’ locations, there aren’t too many things geared towards children here. While there may not be many playgrounds or green space as such, it is surprisingly easy to get around and enjoy the area with young children.

My husband and I are traveling around the world, visiting ten countries in ten months with our two year old son and three year old daughter. Our stay in Istanbul comes midway through our journey and we have surprisingly found the city to be the most child friendly so far. One of the main reasons for this is the Turkish love for children. Other countries have welcomed our children, but Turkey has embraced them. Whether we are on a tram, in a restaurant or just walking down the street, Turkish people everywhere want to entertain and help us care for our kids.

The fact that we have support wherever we go in the city has made it one of the easiest to explore with little kids. Here are a few things we particularly enjoyed in the area around Beyoglu.

Riding the tram. The tram system is easily to navigate and clean. The routes are above ground so there is plenty to distract the kids. Riders always volunteer to hold children and take it upon themselves to entertain the kids for the journey.

Tip for family fun: There is a small playground just outside the Findikli stop. Kids can swing in Europe while overlooking the water to Asia. Parents can sip cay at the adjacent cafe. No other city in the world offers that combination.

Walking along Iskatlal. The crowds on this pedestrian-only street can be overwhelming, but it’s worth navigating them to people watch and expose children to a variety of street performers. The nostalgic tram, a one carriage heritage tram that runs the length of Iskatlal is a fun ride with kids.

Tip for family fun: Balik Pazari, an open air market off Nevizade Street sells everything from fish to exotic fruits and vegetables. In addition to the seafood restaurants there are a variety of stalls offering snacks such as fried oysters. A family can meander the colorful corners of the market, learning about and sampling ingredients like honey in the comb and smoked salmon.

People watching at Galata Tower. The area at the base of the Galata Tower is a great substitute for a playground. It’s a large open space without any traffic. Street performers provide good background music and there are always a plethora of kids, providing for instant play dates. A regular popcorn cart offers a good snack.
Tip for family fun: While the kids play, parents can keep a watchful eye from one of the many cafes along the perimeter of the tower.

Exploring side streets. The cobble stone streets around Beyoglu are lined with character, be it in the form of old buildings, new establishments, or people. It’s best to stay on the sidewalks, where they exist, as drivers can hurl down corners unannounced.

Tip for family fun: Don’t be shy about visiting any of the restaurants, cafes and little boutiques. Every single one we have been too, even those that look fancy, has welcomed the kids. Some restaurants brought out balloons to keep the kids happy, stores offer free chocolate and boutiques love the company of little children (just don’t break anything!).

We encourage families with young children to visit Istanbul. The people will welcome your kids literally with open arms. The best part about the city is that it is possible to do things that adults enjoy while also making it fun for kids.

About Diya:  By the time she graduated college, Diya had visited 28 countries, 5 which she called home. She met her nomadic match in Chicago, they moved soon after to New York City, got married in India, and talked about travel incessantly. Years passed. Fast paced finance careers, an MBA, two children and a dog put extended travel on the back burner. A recent wave of good luck and health gave the family the courage to take a career break and travel around the world. Diya, Sandeep and their two children (Ava, age 3, and Kayan, age 1) aim to hit at least 10 countries in 10 months. Diya is recounting more family travel tales at www.minordiversion.com

Santa Lucia – The area around the station, and technically in Canareggio. In a certain sense, not unlike the area around most train stations in most cities. Pretty commercial. But convenient. Parking is close by at Piazzale Roma.

The Gheto - The Jewish Gheto of Venice, also technically in Canareggio and near Santa Lucia train station. Small, but characteristic. There are three squares – Campo de Gheto vecchio, Campo de Gheto novo, and Campo de Gheto novissimo. Most people, even the Gheto resident’s, won’t know which is which. It doesn’t matter: one is right next to the other and they’re all connected. Jewish and Middle Eastern flair, nice eateries (mostly kosher, of course), art and religious shops. There’s a fairly big (kosher) B&B with nice garden. And then there’s of course the Synagogue; actually not one, but seven!

Cannaregio - Both touristy and not, commercial and artisan at the same time. There’s the large ‘Strada Nova’, a newish and largish street, the only ‘real’ shopping promenade of Venice. Good for a stroll and window shopping (and ice cream of course — try GROM!). Contrasting the Strada Nova, there are many small streets, with hardly any tourists but kids playing and residents chatting. Small artisan shops if you like to watch or buy traditional crafts.

Dorsoduro – Upper-class Venice. Sestiere Dorsoduro is the most elegant neighborhood in Venice, with its larger (and lighter) streets and houses on the grand canal. A view on the grand canal is different from a view on just any canal. Light, air! This is where “La Venezia bene” used to live, and still does. Elegant houses, some with gardens. The canal here won’t be smelly!

San Polo – Touristy, but also not. Convenient – close to the Rialto bridge, and hosting the only ‘real’ market in Venice, “Mercato del Rialto”, famous for fish and other fresh produce. A good choice if you want to be able to walk everywhere easily and quickly without being suffocated by tourists. Also supposed to be the “Foodie” area with lots of restaurants and more alternative places (tea rooms, ethically mixed cuisine, etc).

Santa Croce – Similar to San Polo. Touristy, but also not. Feels a bit less dreamy and time-capsuley than the more traditional neighborhoods. You’re close to Piazzale Roma (parking, bus hub) and the train station (across the canal, big modern bridge). A good, central, mostly residential neighborhood.

San Marco –  Mostly touristy, but super central. This will work out great if you only have little time in Venice. From here, you’ll be able to see most anything of major interest, without your feet blowing up in smoke.

Castello – The largest neighborhood, considered truly the Venice of Venetians. Middle-class, lots of street life, alternative culture, a large park (‘giardini’), this is where most students, artists and working-class Venetians live, and you can feel it. It’s real and pretty unpretentious. Great food, great prices.  On the one hand calm with hardly any tourists, on the other hand very lively with people living their neighborhood. Via Garibaldi s a nice (and large) street to hang out on. The park is a pleasant respite. A ‘centro sociale’ for sub-culture music, theater and cinema. Personally my favorite neighborhood – did I give that away? I love all of Venice though.

For a ’different Venice’ experience there’s Giudecca and Venice Lido – I’m putting them in the same category even though they really haven nothing else in common, except that they both represent a different side of Venice AND that you will definitely need to take the water boat to get to them.  From Giudecca to Saint Mark’s takes about 2 minutes; from Venice Lido it’s about 15 minutes.  The boat trips are about €6.20 one way but if you plan on taking the waterbus more than a couple of times anywhere in Venice, you should get a 3-day or 5-day pass with unlimited rides.

Giudecca is a younger part of Venice, but still goes back a few hundred years. It’s a very blue-collar neighborhood. Here, houses are slightly more modern than in the rest of Venice. You have some green areas, and houses with gardens. It’s very non-touristy, as it’s detached from the rest of Venice and there’s no bridge over the canal. You get a beautiful view of the rest of Venice!

Venice Lido is for the beach girl/boy in you. Or the one who never got over Death in Venice. Or the cinema groupie. Actually, it’s also the best choice for those who don’t want to feel like they’ve travelled in a time-machine and appreciate the commodities of modern life – cars, buses, elevators – in Venice Lido you get all that.

Venezia Mestre – This is not actually Venice, but it’s close enough, distance-wise. A few minutes on the train or bus and you’ll be in Venice. And so much cheaper!

I have spent some time recently dog-sitting for a friend who lives in the historic center of Rome, and I can tell you that after 8+ years of living in Rome dog-less, walking around the city with a dog is a completely different experience than walking around the city on your own.

We do receive on occasion (maybe once every couple months) an email from somebody who is traveling with a dog and wants to know if we have any properties that will accept pets (in fact, we just got an email about that this week). Usually they live in other parts of Italy or Europe and are traveling by car; their trips tend to be a little longer and not just a “city break” for a few days in a European capital. So here are a few things you should know if you plan on traveling with your dog (sorry cat lovers, we just haven’t received any requests to bring cats!).

1. Only bring your dog if you have to and/or feel it would be in its best interest. If you have somebody reliable at home who can pet-sit, that’s probably the best bet. Traveling with a pet can make things more expensive, complicated, and tiring. (It’s your vacation! Wouldn’t you rather sleep in, instead of getting up at 7am because your furry friend needs his morning wee?) For some dogs, traveling could also be traumatizing– spending long periods of time in a car, overstimulation from too many new things, crowds of people, new smells, bits of food on the ground… you are taking your dog out of its comfort zone when you travel!

2. Only bring your dog if it’s well-behaved. If he is aggressive with strangers or other animals, bites or snaps, barks a lot, has potty-training problems, jumps on everybody in sight (even if he’s just trying to be friendly!), or is out of control, please DO NOT bring your dog with you. This will just cause grief for you, the people around you, and your dog himself.

3. Yes, we do have properties that will accept dogs. Most don’t, but some do. Owners usually take it on a case-by-case basis and decide if they want to accept a dog or not (sometimes it might depend on the size of the dog — understandably, there is more acceptance to smaller dogs — or they might need reassurance from you that the dog is not going to destroy the place). Generally speaking, multiple-room B&Bs or guesthouses will not accept pets, because there will be other guests staying who might be allergic to or otherwise bothered by them. Private apartment owners tend to be more flexible. Of course, if we do find a place that will accept your dog, keep in mind that any damage done by your dog will be paid for by you! That means if he chews something up, or pees on something, you will be paying for the replacement or repair of that item.

4. It would be a good idea to book a place nearby a park or other green area where you can walk your dog. That’s actually not too hard in Rome. Rome has quite a few big parks (Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphili, Villa Celimontana, Parco della Caffarella, etc) and there are also lots of tiny little parks in most neighborhoods which will at least give them a patch of grass to do their business on, sniff at, and play in. Staying somewhere near the Tiber river (which is most of the historic center, really) is another great option as you can take your dog down the steps to the riverbank and walk them there, where there are few people around and plenty of space.

5. Keep your dog on a leash. This is very important in a city like Rome. You don’t want your dog taking off and running across a busy road or getting lost in a strange place. And you don’t want him getting away from you and doing something naughty (say, jumping up and licking a tourist’s ice cream cone… or worse?). Follow the rules — I have seen signs in parks specifically saying to keep dogs on a leash, only to see dogs galore running around leash-less. Don’t do this: play it safe and you’ll avoid a fine, or a confrontation.

6. Scoop the poop and watch where your dog pees. Sadly, you’ll see dog poo all over the place here, especially in residential neighborhoods. But don’t do as the Romans do in this case: clean up after your dog. It’s against the law not to, it’s common courtesy, and remember: you could be the one accidentally stepping in it on your way back. Storefronts pose a special problem for those not used to walking their dog in a big city; especially the storefronts in the historic center. There are many, many stores in the winding streets of the historic center, mostly open-front or with doors open, and here they will often display items outside, sometimes on the ground or at dog-level (say, shoes or books). Male dogs especially will want to stop and mark everything in sight. Be vigilant about where they lift their legs: walls are OK; storefronts or front doors of apartment buildings are not!

7. Rome is a dirty city with a serious litter problem, and your dog will be eating random garbage off the ground. There’s not really a way to avoid this (unless you have a rare dog who’s not food-crazy). Bits of vegetables on the ground left over from the outdoor markets; gelato cups tossed on the street with a few last licks of melting ice cream in them; pieces of bread meant for pigeons; garbage bags with old food sitting on the side of the street waiting to be picked up — your dog will try to eat all this and more. Be prepared to watch with an eagle eye and drag your dog away from whatever delizia he smells if necessary; even then, he’ll still manage to eat stuff you don’t want him to.

8. Now on to the good stuff… a lot of businesses are more dog-friendly than they would be elsewhere. Of course you should always ask first, but many coffee bars will gladly welcome your dog in with you while you stop for a cappuccino or a sandwich, provided he behaves himself, of course. (Sanitary regulations just aren’t as strictly observed as they are in many other countries!) There is one coffee bar in my area that happily greets all their furry visitors and brings them a bowl of milk to slurp on. Obviously you won’t bring your dog into a supermarket or an indoor restaurant, but in Rome many restaurants and bars have outdoor seating and your dog will be welcome there.

9. You will meet a lot more people than you normally would if you’re walking around with a dog. In a week of dog-sitting, I probably ended up stopping and talking to more random people on the street than I would in a year dog-less. Somebody talking on a cell phone actually ended his conversation to pet the dog and ask me his name and breed. Walking on the Isola Tiberina (the pedestrian island in the river near Trastevere), I met five rough-and-tough Romanian fishermen who wanted to play with the dog and give him one of the fish they’d caught. Late on a Saturday night, a rowdy group of drunk Roman teenagers around Campo de’ Fiori stopped to fuss over the dog and scratch his ears. The point is, most people like dogs. I have seen even the grumpiest-looking face melt into a smile and stop to give the dog a pat on his head. This is great if you want to feel part of the culture, stop and talk to locals, and practice (or pick up!) some Italian.

Every morning I walk to work in Istanbul. During my half-hour walk, there are many shortcuts and variations to my walk, but my favorite always remains the same: Çukurcuma. The neighborhood’s history dates back to the 1200s and still has buildings from that period. Çukurcuma means ‘Hollow Friday’, a name acquired when Fatih Sultan Mehmed II came to this hollow to join the Friday prayers before he conquered Istanbul. Two famous hammams, Firuzaga and Aga Hamami were built in this area right after Constantinopolis became Istanbul in the 1400s.

Although its roots are historic, the neighborhood underwent a gentrification process so now bars and cafes mix with antique shops. Wandering in and out of Çukurcuma’s various stores and cafes, it is easy to get lost, but in fact this is the best way to discover any neighborhood and part of the fun of traveling anywhere unknown. As the area once was home to Armenian and Greek communities, the architecture still reflects that energy and diversity.

Located between the bohemian Cihangir and legendary Istiklal Street, at first glance it feels like you’re in grandma’s neighborhood with traditional grocery stores and tea houses. Then you make a turn and see a store with high-end fashion. Piquant graffiti stands out on the walls. Cats are not uncommon.  In fact, they are all well-fed by the residents of the neighborhood.

Some houses are renovated and quite pricey whereas others show their years with character. Most of the buildings are tall with staggered roofs, hovering bay windows, crumbling arched doors and interiors of exposed bricks.

The antique stores could keep you busy for hours. You’ll find furniture, old records, shoes, postcards, photos, books, jewelery, jackets, mirrors and many other objects, each with an unknown story.

When you get hungry wandering around, there are a few great places to eat. One of my recent favorites is Antakya Mutfagi with its delicious Mesopotamian appetizers.  Cukurcuma Koftecisi is a classic for meatball lovers. Ufak Tefek Seyler is a cute little cafe with pastries and hot drinks and has a tiny balcony.

Cukurcuma is a district that mixes East and West, modern and traditional. The cool thing here is an endless amount of something new (or old) to discover at some corner.

I just discovered cecina, a Tuscan flatbread/pancake made from chickpea flour and water.  I can’t stop thinking, “how is it possible that I’ve lived in Italy most of my adult life and never had this before?”

Two of my daughters and I were in Florence and since I refuse to eat a mediocre meal anywhere, I dragged them around looking for just the right place and decided on Cinque e 5 in the Oltrarno.  It was small, cute, organic, vegetarian/vegan friendly, and the right mix of traditional and creative.  On the menu were a number of things I didn’t recognize, like cecina, both plain or with artichokes (as pictured above) as well as an unleavened focaccia called covaccino and the Florentine ravioli, pansoti, which are stuffed with greens and tossed in a walnut sauce.

Perhaps this is yet one more example of Italy’s awesomeness – that one can discover new foods that exist only a few hours away from one’s home; that entire culinary traditions in a neighboring region are totally foreign to you.

With my interested piqued, I looked it up to get the full story and to make it myself:  it’s called farinata in general, cecina in Tuscany, and socca in southern France.  There’s even a version of it in Sardegna, Uruguay and Argentina.  Originally from Genova – hence having spread to Sardegna (which was originally populated by the French Genovesi) and now typical of all of Liguria, and the stretch from Nice all the way to Pisa.  It is a simple flatbread made of chickpea flour, olive oil and salt.  It’s gluten-free – something that ought to really appeal to celiacs, suffering in Italy without something bread-like to dip into.  It’s similar to a tortilla and holds together well – can be stuffed or used like a sandwich, or rolled up like a crêpe.  You can bake stuff into it, like the artichokes; spread a soft cheese on it, such as stracchino; or top with onions, as I did for my first trial:

It’s pretty easy to make, but also easy to burn.  I mixed about 250g of chickpea flour with 750ml of water, added about 2 tbs of salt and let it sit overnight.  The next morning I stirred in 3 tbs of olive oil and a bit more flour until it was batter-like, then poured it into a well-oiled round dish, and baked it at 250°C until it was nice and brown.  Since I made a few different ones of various thicknesses, to experiment, the time ranged from 10 minutes to 30 minutes (and 1/2 of one was totally burnt to a crisp).

If you’re in Florence, be sure to try the cecina at Cinque e 5 in piazza della Passera in the Oltrarno.

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Or follow more of our recommendations for places to eat on our foursquare page.

1. Venice deserves a real stay, not just a hit and run.

Of course, two days in Venice is better than zero days in Venice. Many people have limited time and a long list of places they want to see, and the common misconception is that Venice is so small, one or two nights will do.

Beyond a lot of churches, monuments, museums, galleries, art, food… in other words, the old spiel that’s  true for pretty much every Italian city, there is a unique silent beauty all around. The light reflecting in the water basically everywhere, the silence (no-cars-no-cars-no-cars!! NO CARS!!) and the calm that comes with that. The fact that it’s an island — in so many ways.  Every day in Venice, I felt like I was quietly rehearsing my role in an important play on a beautiful stage, and everyone was doing the same.

We all know there’s something special about Venice, but it’s hard to grasp how very special that something is.  Give yourself enough time to settle into the spectacle, and enjoy it fully.

2. Venice isn’t touristy.

What? Yes, you read right. It’s super-über-nauseatingly touristy during high season — but only in the touristy areas. As soon as you step out of them (which is easy as they are so concentrated), you’re just that little actor in the big play again.

Many neighborhoods in Venice are very genuine, with extremely nice people (Venetians have a great sense of humor) and ‘Venetian integrity’. Think Sestiere Giudecca, Castello Basso, Cannaregio, S. Croce and S.Polo. They all have their touristy spots, but the rest remains pretty much untouched!

by Michelle L.

3. It’s a party on the beach.

Venice Lido is just a 15-minute ride on the vaporetto (water bus).  Once there you’re on an island with the true feel of summer: sand, beach, and relaxation.  And if you happen to go during the Biennale, there’s cinema too.  There are many famous movies and books set on Venice Lido, Death in Venice by Thomas Mann being the most famous.

4. The lagoon around Venice is extremely ‘rich’ with protected wildlife.

Most people only experience the city center, and perhaps the beach.  In the surrounding lagoon you can birdwatch, hike, take a trip to Burano (with its colorful little houses) and Torcello (a special flair, only 15 residents, most of them over 90 years old!).

5.  Venice is GREAT with babies and toddlers.

Babies —  you can just carry them around all day.  They’ll love the soft splash-splash of the water and being lulled to sleep.  They’ll love to be walked around in that perpetual state of nodding off.

Toddlers will love the variety of boats.  They’ll enjoy the Venetians musically raving about them and the treats they’ll be handed while having their cheeks pinched.  They’ll love the pigeons (it’s not as bad anymore! just a handful of pretty healthy birdies).  They’ll love the bridges with steps (endless ups and downs!) and they’ll love the fact that they can pretty much run freely everywhere without having to worry about traffic.

If you need or want to take a stroller along, these days many bridges are wheelchair accessible and there is a special wheelchair ‘parcours’ (LINK) which will make pushing a stroller around much easier.

Also, the owners of Casa delle Rose offer a service for baby equipment called Venice Baby Rental.

6. Venice is a perfect example to demonstrate that we really do have a problem with our waste on this planet.

You knew we have a trash problem already, I hope! Venice is small. It’s an island. Most of its streets are narrow. No cars or trucks can drive by and get that waste out of your field of vision (and with that, out of your mind, right?). Venetians know what a true WASTE PROBLEM is. They have to be super-organized with their garbage, otherwise in the blink of an eye things can turn from a problem into a full blown catastrophe, like finding their city literally buried under waste.

Avoiding making trash should always be the key. And then recycling, of course. In Venice you need to be very punctual in timing your trash-disposal.  This is particularly important if you are renting a vacation home and need to be responsible for your own garbage.  Waste is to be deposited in the streets, within a certain time frame, typically between 6 am and 10 am ONLY. Not before (say, during the night. Rats, anyone?). It’s not a joke – listen carefully to what your host has to say about disposing your trash.

(Sidenote: I was in Venice recently during a three-day strike of the garbage-management workers. It was pretty bad.)

7. The postman is your best friend!

If you are as naive as me (probably impossible) you’ll arrive in Venice, look at an address  (which is typically just an indication of the neighborhood plus a number, so ‘Castello 2915′ or ‘Cannaregio 5960′) and without hesitation hit the street for that number, thinking you’ll find the place in no time. Ha!  Don’t be fooled.

Unless for some reason you are incredibly lucky and just stumble upon it, you could be doomed forever. Numbers in Venice are no joke — or, are they? There is basically no logic to it.  You could be looking at a ’6789′ and the next house down will be a ’3546′.

There’s only one solution – find a postman! They are the ONLY ONES who know the numbers.

That being said, if you want to find a place, don’t write it down with the address being ‘Sestiere XY, number xyxy’ but rather find the nearest PIAZZA, or ‘Campo’, as they are called locally.  In Venice only Saint Mark’s is allowed the name ‘piazza’ (square); all the other minor squares are called ‘campo’. This will also distinguish you from the category ‘tourist’ and bring you closer to being a true Venetian.

8. Venice might change your life.

If you only go for 2 days, you will probably confirm that it’s as gorgeous and romantic as you thought it would be. Or, you might think you’ll NEVER want to go back – if all you see is the heavily touristed side.

On my last visit to Barcelona, I was coming back from a walk around the Parco Güell when I walked by a tempting bakery window. Of course I had to stop inside and try something. I bought one of the giant meringues that you can see in the photo; the person working at the counter told me it was called “roca de Gaudí”. It’s really just a simple meringue flavored with almonds; delicious if you are into meringues (super sugary!).

Strangely enough, I haven’t been able to find anything online about how this almond-flavored meringue got the name “roca de Gaudí”, and whether the term is just used in Barcelona or in all of Catalonia. Any Barca experts out there know?

I did find a nice, simple recipe to make it at this website.

The sweets next to the rocas de Gaudí in the photo are called coques de vidre, a sweet, thin, crispy Catalan cake made with anise liqueur and a layer of smooth sugar that’s like glass (vidre). I didn’t try it last time, but I will on my next trip! In the meantime, here’s a recipe for that too – in case your curiosity has been piqued.