Child Friendly Istanbul

by Diya Luke

Istanbul has been our family’s home for one month. On first blush, Istanbul didn’t strike us as being child friendly. In fact, Istanbullus argue that there aren’t enough child oriented things to do in the city. Our neighborhood of Beyoglu has a vibrant arts scene and variety of restaurants, cafes and boutiques. However, like most ‘hip’ locations, there aren’t too many things geared towards children here. While there may not be many playgrounds or green space as such, it is surprisingly easy to get around and enjoy the area with young children.

My husband and I are traveling around the world, visiting ten countries in ten months with our two year old son and three year old daughter. Our stay in Istanbul comes midway through our journey and we have surprisingly found the city to be the most child friendly so far. One of the main reasons for this is the Turkish love for children. Other countries have welcomed our children, but Turkey has embraced them. Whether we are on a tram, in a restaurant or just walking down the street, Turkish people everywhere want to entertain and help us care for our kids.

The fact that we have support wherever we go in the city has made it one of the easiest to explore with little kids. Here are a few things we particularly enjoyed in the area around Beyoglu.

Riding the tram. The tram system is easily to navigate and clean. The routes are above ground so there is plenty to distract the kids. Riders always volunteer to hold children and take it upon themselves to entertain the kids for the journey.

Tip for family fun: There is a small playground just outside the Findikli stop. Kids can swing in Europe while overlooking the water to Asia. Parents can sip cay at the adjacent cafe. No other city in the world offers that combination.

Walking along Iskatlal. The crowds on this pedestrian-only street can be overwhelming, but it’s worth navigating them to people watch and expose children to a variety of street performers. The nostalgic tram, a one carriage heritage tram that runs the length of Iskatlal is a fun ride with kids.

Tip for family fun: Balik Pazari, an open air market off Nevizade Street sells everything from fish to exotic fruits and vegetables. In addition to the seafood restaurants there are a variety of stalls offering snacks such as fried oysters. A family can meander the colorful corners of the market, learning about and sampling ingredients like honey in the comb and smoked salmon.

People watching at Galata Tower. The area at the base of the Galata Tower is a great substitute for a playground. It’s a large open space without any traffic. Street performers provide good background music and there are always a plethora of kids, providing for instant play dates. A regular popcorn cart offers a good snack.
Tip for family fun: While the kids play, parents can keep a watchful eye from one of the many cafes along the perimeter of the tower.

Exploring side streets. The cobble stone streets around Beyoglu are lined with character, be it in the form of old buildings, new establishments, or people. It’s best to stay on the sidewalks, where they exist, as drivers can hurl down corners unannounced.

Tip for family fun: Don’t be shy about visiting any of the restaurants, cafes and little boutiques. Every single one we have been too, even those that look fancy, has welcomed the kids. Some restaurants brought out balloons to keep the kids happy, stores offer free chocolate and boutiques love the company of little children (just don’t break anything!).

We encourage families with young children to visit Istanbul. The people will welcome your kids literally with open arms. The best part about the city is that it is possible to do things that adults enjoy while also making it fun for kids.

About Diya:  By the time she graduated college, Diya had visited 28 countries, 5 which she called home. She met her nomadic match in Chicago, they moved soon after to New York City, got married in India, and talked about travel incessantly. Years passed. Fast paced finance careers, an MBA, two children and a dog put extended travel on the back burner. A recent wave of good luck and health gave the family the courage to take a career break and travel around the world. Diya, Sandeep and their two children (Ava, age 3, and Kayan, age 1) aim to hit at least 10 countries in 10 months. Diya is recounting more family travel tales at www.minordiversion.com

Remember the Cows – guest post by Erica Murdoch

Photo by Tirol Bike Trail

It was our last day in Pertisau, high up in the Austrian Alps, and we were having our usual stilted conversation with our charming breakfast waiter. Clearing the table he offered the following,”Are you coming to see the cows today?”

Photo by Juniorpyro

We were puzzled. Cows had not been mentioned as a tourist attraction here. Pertisau is a place where you go to walk up mountains, eat huge amounts of food, brave the icy waters of Lake Achensee and do the same again. Upon much questioning we ascertained that each year in September the cows that graze up on the high alms are walked down to the valley in order to be housed for the long European winter. The festival is known as Almbetreib and is an annual festival across Austria and celebrates the end of  a successful farming season, but in particular celebrating the cow!

Coming from Australia we were  intrigued. As my husband is of Indian origin he could appreciate a little of this cow worship. We wanted to learn more and considered it a fitting end to our Austrian holiday. Our children were harder to convince. “What’s the big deal about a bunch of cows walking down from the hills?” said Miss Twelve. Miss Fourteen just plugged into her IPod  and looked bored as we explained the concept as best as we could.

Photo by Francois Schnell

Come midday we joined throngs of locals walking through the town and past the pastures to the head of the valley. We passed people setting up deckchairs in the blazing noonday sun awaiting the appearance of the cows. We ate our lunch sitting on tree stumps in the forest. Our children still plugged in to their IPods, we were in conversation with an elderly British couple who told us the biggest milk producers of the cows wear a special yellow garland and the lead cow of the procession a red garland and wreath.

Suddenly a cry went up which translated to “They are coming!” Our children, sophisticated city kids, abandoned their IPods and took off into the distance so they could see the first of the cows. Lines of cows accompanied by schnapps-sipping-lederhosen-clad-gorgeous-blonde-giants! As the cows passed into the centre of Pertisau, more and more people joined them so it became a joint procession. Sounds of cowbells jangling and cows mooing drowned out out conversation. Outside the guesthouses, temporary bars had been set up with the landlords offering the cow’s guardians liberal swigs of schnapps and huge steins of beer! Our children played “spot the best garland” and wrinkled their noses at the fresh cow droppings.

As we reached the centre of town there was a brief respite as the cows, their guardians, and the townsfolk gathered a meadow. There were speeches, schnapps, and dancing and it was only 1.30 on a Friday afternoon. Sadly we had to leave as we had been advised by the hotel that our car transfer to the local station would have to leave earlier due to the cattle. “If you leave later, you may get stuck behind the cows and they won’t care that you have to catch a plane.”

It’s 2 months ago now, but the kids still say, “Remember the cows?”

Erica and her family used Cross Pollinate for their accommodation in Venice in mid September of 2011. They stayed at Ca’ Francesco in the Jewish ghetto and wrote that “It was a terrific apartment. Alexandra the owner was so helpful and kind. Would highly recommend it and your service!”

If you have a travel story of something unusual and memorable, submit it to us at steve@cross-pollinate.com